(07-07-2014 09:20 PM)khouse Wrote: [ -> ]The etrac. I too was sceptical for years. Here are some of the negatives I read before owning one.
1. It sounds like a Flute. I can't get used to the tones
(if you don't like the multi tone option simply set it to 1,2 or 4 tones)
2. It don't hit on Gold jewelry
(as with most machines - non connective (split) gold rings and chains are hard to hit with depth. But a regular ring is no problem as I have found many)
3. There are too many adjustments and I can't get it right!
(actually there are few adjustments especially if you compare it with a VX3 or V3i. The etrac is like the Ronco Rotisserie - Once you set it you forget it)
4. My battery is always down!
(Dude it's rechargeable - put it on the charger once in a while)
5. There is no way it can find silver at 10+ inches. Those guys are planting those coins!
(Nope - we are not planting coins- it goes that deep}
6. It cost too much! You can find coins with a 212$ machine!
(you sure can - but the silver that's left is usually deeper and if you want silver and wheaties you need to go deeper. If you want surface clad then buy a 212$ machine)
If you get the etrac I will call you and help set it up. Like I said most everything will not ever be changed again except your discrimination patterns which are all over the net.
Do I use the etrac everywhere? No. I use other machines. Like the Gold Bug Pro. I can use it for jewelry and coin hunting down pretty deep. Also real trashy sites. Once I get an area cleared out and some old coins have been found I get the deep silver and copper machines out - etrac time. I'm waiting for my shipment of F19's from Fisher. The etrac and F19 combo will be hard to beat.
I don't think I can put it any better than Khouse just did, as everything is SPOT on
Yes, battery life sucks. Deal with it (like I do), or, simply get the rechargeable battery pack, as mentioned above. Finding good stuff comes at a price, lol.
Heavy machines? Absolutely! However, again, if you're looking for old coins - especially DEEP old coins, nothing can touch these machines. So, once you start pulling out 100, 200 year old coins on a regular basis, believe me, you won't give two shits about the weight anymore
Admission, I tried a Minelab years ago...and hated it. Why? Because I didn't know what I was doing. I didn't know the power I had in my hands. Going from a Whites MXT to a Minelab is the equivalent of driving a horse & buggy and then taking a Lamborghini for a ride! Like Khouse said, the tones were driving me loony! I just didn't get it. And I was finding silver with it!!! Lol.
Here's some advice I was given many years ago about the Minelabs...
The controls and settings you can master in a couple of days. Easy stuff once you know what each function does. It's the TONES that are going to be the learning curve.
I put the above in bold, because it couldn't be truer. Forget settings. Yes, it's a bit confusing at first, but, after a week or so, that'll be a breeze. The TONES are the secret sauce of the Minelabs
THIS is what will take time to learn. However, you WILL learn them with enough time & patience, and once you do, you'll never go back.
There are 3 evils that every detectorist faces at most of the better known, obvious hunting spots...
1. Hunters before you sniped most of the old surface coins & silver.
2. Heavy fill dirt, in most instances.
3. Sinkage, due to many factors.
Now, couple all three of the above together, and think for a second. How many old coins are going to be shallow, say, 6" or less? Very, very few. This is the strength of the Minelabs - DEPTH. Minelabs aren't the best machines (by far) for iron work, nor are they speedy things, but, what you're paying for is unrivaled depth & a symphony of rich tones that, once learned, can give you almost psychic ability as to what you're digging up on each signal.
Going from another brand to a Minelab isn't easy. However, as with anything else in life, you get what you put in. Time & patience will prevail.
Joe